This refined table runner combines a long openwork lace foundation with strongly textured vertical braid columns and dramatic three-dimensional roses at both ends. The central mesh keeps the piece light, while the raised columns create structure and help the runner stay visually straight. Large layered roses and veined leaves are crocheted separately and sewn on after blocking, which makes the project easier to control and lets you arrange the floral clusters exactly as shown in the reference image.
Skill Level: Advanced intermediate
Finished Size: Approx. 36-40 cm (14-16 in) wide x 115-125 cm (45-49 in) long
Terminology: US crochet terms
Construction: One long rectangular lace panel with an open center, raised side columns, scalloped edging, and separately crocheted roses and leaves sewn to both ends
SEO Title: Sculpted Rose Lace Crochet Table Runner Pattern
Meta Description: Crochet an elegant white lace table runner with raised braid columns, scalloped sides, dimensional gray roses and leaves using this photo-inspired full pattern.
Suggested Slug: sculpted-rose-lace-crochet-table-runner-pattern
Focus Keyphrase: rose lace crochet table runner
Materials
Sport or light DK mercerized cotton in white or soft ivory, about 350-450 g
Sport cotton in silver gray, about 120-150 g for roses and leaves
3.0-3.5 mm crochet hook
Tapestry needle, sharp sewing needle and scissors
Blocking mat, rustproof pins and measuring tape
Optional: matching sewing thread for securing heavy flower layers
Abbreviations
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
FPdc = front post double crochet
BPdc = back post double crochet
FPTR = front post treble crochet
BPTR = back post treble crochet
sp/sps = space/spaces
st/sts = stitch/stitches
sk = skip
rep = repeat
inc = increase
dec = decrease
MR = magic ring
FO = fasten off
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Gauge and Pattern Notes
For the main panel, aim for about 20 dc and 10 rows per 10 cm / 4 in after light blocking. Exact gauge is less important than symmetry. The runner should lie flat without the center mesh becoming loose or the braid columns pulling inward.
Pattern note: This is an independently written, photo-inspired approximation based on the visible construction in the supplied image. It is not copied from a published pattern. Yarn weight, hook size, tension and blocking can change the finished measurements, so small adjustments are expected.
Method
The base is worked lengthwise from one short end to the other. A central chain-space lattice creates the openwork panel, while denser side bands support raised post-stitch braids. After the rectangle reaches the desired length, the long edges receive a layered lace border. Roses and leaves are made separately, blocked, then sewn into balanced clusters at both ends.
Formation / Construction Plan
Work a stable foundation chain and establish solid side bands with a central mesh zone.
Build two raised braid columns using front-post and back-post stitches on each side of the center mesh.
Repeat the main body rows until the runner reaches the desired length.
Add a scalloped lace border to both long edges and soften the short ends.
Crochet six large layered roses, several medium roses, and twelve to sixteen leaves.
Block the base and all motifs separately before assembly.
Arrange three principal roses at each end, fill the gaps with leaves, then sew every motif firmly in place.
Full Pattern
Main Lace Foundation
Ch 93 loosely. Dc in 5th ch from hook and in each ch across. You should have 89 working sts plus the turning chain.
Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next 12 sts, *ch 2, sk 2, dc in next st* across the next 57 sts, then dc in final 13 sts. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 3, dc in each of first 13 sts, *ch 2, dc in next dc* across the mesh section, then dc in each of final 13 sts. Turn.
Rows 4-7: Repeat Row 3, keeping 13 solid sts at each side and the mesh centered.
Row 8: Ch 3, dc across the full row, working 2 dc into each ch-2 sp of the mesh. This solid row stabilizes the fabric.
Rows 9-15: Repeat Rows 2-8 once. The alternating open and solid rows create the subtle framed-lattice look visible in the photo.
Raised Braid Columns
From the next RS row, mark sts 5-10 and the mirrored six-stitch group near the opposite side. These groups form the two braid columns.
Braid setup row: Work in pattern to the first marked group. FPTR around next 3 sts, then FPTR around the previous 3 posts to cross the group. Continue in pattern and repeat on the opposite side.
Next WS row: Work BPTR around all six braid posts without crossing them. Keep the center mesh and outside solid bands unchanged.
Next RS row: Cross the six posts in the opposite direction by working around the second group of three first, then the first group of three.
Repeat the uncrossed WS row and alternating crossed RS rows for the entire length of the runner. Tug each post stitch to the same height so the braid remains even.
Continue the main body until the piece measures about 102-110 cm (40-43 in), ending after a solid stabilizing row.
Short-End Shaping
Work one row of sc across the short end, placing 3 sc in each corner.
Next row: Ch 1, sc 3, *ch 3, sk 2, sc 3* across, adjusting the final repeat so the design is centered.
Final end row: In each ch-3 sp work 5 dc; sl st in the center sc between shells. Repeat across. FO.
Repeat the same three rows on the opposite short end.
Long Scalloped Side Border
Join white yarn at one long edge. Work 1 sc into each row end, using 2 sc around taller post-stitch rows when necessary so the edge lies flat.
Border Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc in next st* along the side.
Border Row 3: Sl st into first ch-5 sp, ch 3, 4 dc in same sp, picot (ch 3, sl st in first ch), 5 dc in same sp; sc in next ch-5 sp. Repeat alternating shell and sc spaces.
Border Row 4: Work 3 sc over each shell side, ch 3 picot at the center of every shell, and sc across the connecting spaces. FO.
Repeat the complete border on the opposite long edge.
Large Layered Rose – Make 6
With gray, make MR and work 12 sc into ring. Join.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join. (24 sts)
Rnd 3: *Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* around. Join. (36 sts)
Create first petal layer in front loops only: *sl st in next FLO, ch 2, 3 dc in same FLO, ch 2, sl st in same FLO*; repeat every other stitch around.
For the second petal layer, work behind the first layer into unused loops: *sl st, ch 3, 5 tr, ch 3, sl st* across groups of two loops. Make 8-9 petals.
For the outer layer, attach yarn around back posts of Rnd 3 and work *ch 4, 7 dtr, ch 4, sl st* evenly around to make 8 broad petals.
Steam or wet block only the outer edges. Curl the inner petals inward by hand and tack two or three petals together near the center for a sculpted rose shape.
Medium Rose – Make 4 to 6
Repeat the large rose through Rnd 2 only, then make two petal layers instead of three.
Shape to about 7-8 cm (2.75-3.25 in) across.
Veined Leaves – Make 12 to 16
Ch 18. Starting in 2nd ch from hook work sc, hdc, 2 dc, 8 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc; work 3 sc in last ch.
Continue down opposite side in reverse order: sc, hdc, 2 dc, 8 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc. Join.
Next round: Work sc around, placing (sc, ch 2, sc) in the leaf tip. FO.
With a long tail, surface sl st from base to tip to create a raised center vein. Add two short diagonal veins with surface stitches if desired.
Finishing and Blocking
Wet block the main runner to final measurements, pinning the center mesh square and the borders symmetrically. Let it dry completely.
Block roses face up without flattening their centers. Block leaves with a distinct pointed tip.
At each end, place one large rose near the center and two large roses slightly behind it. Add one or two medium roses if the image-inspired cluster needs more fullness.
Tuck leaves beneath the roses in mirrored pairs. Pin all motifs before sewing so both ends remain visually balanced.
Sew through the sturdy base rounds of every rose rather than through petal tips. Secure leaves along the center vein and at the lower edges.
Weave in all ends, inspect the braid columns for twisting, and lightly steam the border only if necessary.
Optional Variations
Use champagne and blush instead of white and gray for a softer romantic version.
Replace the large roses with peonies or layered daisies while keeping the same lace base.
Shorten the runner by removing body repeats; lengthen it by adding repeats between the end sections.
Work the border in a contrasting metallic or pearl cotton for a formal dining-table version.