Introduction
Capture the spirit of fall with this vibrant crochet maple leaf trivet. Showcasing a striking blend of deep red, rose, and pale pink hues, the piece instantly brings the warmth of autumn into your home. It’s shaped into a large, detailed maple leaf, with sharply defined points, visible vein details, and an elegant looped stem. This project features clean color transitions, raised textural ridges, and crisp edges, making it both striking and practical. Perfect as a festive trivet for hot mugs and dishes, a seasonal centerpiece, or even as a decorative wall accent, this handmade maple leaf is sure to become a cherished part of your autumn décor.
Making this crochet maple leaf is not only visually satisfying but also a rewarding way to sharpen your skills. The thoughtful color play and shaping will keep you engaged, while the tactile details add delightful dimension and realism. Whether you’re creating it for yourself or as a handmade gift, this project celebrates the elegance and nostalgia of fall in every stitch.
Project Overview
This maple leaf trivet is constructed as a single flat piece, worked in sections to form each lobe of the leaf and then brought together at the center. You’ll start from the bottom center, working outward in rows to construct each of the main maple leaf lobes. The central leaf “vein” is formed by chain spaces, and ribbing is created by working into the back loops. Each pointed section is carefully shaped with increases and decreases, while the edging and stem are added last for a polished finish. Color changes are used to achieve a smooth ombré effect from cream to red, echoing the natural gradient found in autumn foliage.
Skill Level
Advanced Beginner to Intermediate. This project uses basic stitches (single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet), but it requires working in both rows and partial motifs, careful increases and decreases, and color changes. The shaping involved in each leaf lobe, as well as crocheting separate leaf points and a stem, offers a gentle challenge suitable for crocheters who are comfortable with foundation stitches and want to practice more advanced shaping, colorwork, and textural techniques.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight (category 4) mercerized cotton for crisp stitches and good heat resistance. Suggested colors: (A) Cream or pale blush – 30g, (B) Medium pink – 40g, (C) Deep red or fuchsia – 40g.
- Crochet hook: 4.0 mm (G/6) or size needed to achieve gauge.
- Tapestry needle: For weaving in ends and sewing parts if needed.
- Sharp scissors
- Stitch markers: Optional, for tracking the start of rows or points.
- Blocking materials: Iron, pressing cloth, or rust-proof pins and foam mat for blocking shape.
Finished Size
- Approximate size: 33 cm wide x 32 cm tall (including stem) / 13 in x 12.5 in.
To adjust the size, use finer or thicker yarn and an appropriate hook, or add/subtract rows in each segment for larger or smaller leaves.
Gauge
Approximately 16 sc x 16 rows = 10×10 cm (4×4 in) in back loop only single crochet, blocked. Small differences in gauge will affect the final trivet’s size, but it’s not critical for this project—just aim for a tight, even fabric that will lay flat.
Stitches and Abbreviations
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- blo – back loop only
- inc – increase (2 sc in same st)
- dec – decrease (single crochet 2 together)
Important Pattern Notes
- Chains at the start of rows do not count as stitches unless noted.
- Work each lobe in rows, turning at the end of each row.
- Change color in the last pull-through of previous stitch to keep transitions neat.
- Use stitch markers to mark the first and last stitch of each section and join points if desired.
- The right side (RS) is the public-facing side. Mark it with a piece of scrap yarn if needed.
Detailed Crochet Pattern
Part 1: Center Vein & Foundation
- With Color A (cream), ch 13.
- Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (12 sc). Turn.
- Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across.
From here, you’ll create the first (central) main lobe. The leaf is made as a collection of radiating points—work 3 central ones first, then side lobes and the stem.
Part 2: Central Lobe (worked in rows)
- Row 3: Ch 1, blo sc in next 5 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts (this marks central ‘vein’), blo sc in last 5 sts. (10 sc, 1 ch-2 sp). Turn.
- Row 4: Ch 1, blo sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in ch-2 sp (mark with stitch marker – this is the seed of your vein), blo sc in last 5 sts. (12 sc). Turn.
- Row 5: Ch 1, blo sc in each st across. (12 sc). Turn.
- Rows 6-7: Repeat Row 5. Optionally, at Row 7, switch to Color B for the start of the color transition.
- Rows 8-9: Continue as for Row 5, working in Color B.
- Row 10: Ch 1, blo sc in first 2, inc, sc, ch 1, sk 1, sc, inc, blo sc in last 2. (Increase on either side for shaping; 14 sc + ch-1 sp). Turn.
Continue in a similar fashion, working increases at both edges every 2nd row, and maintaining a central ch-1 space in the middle for the “vein” by skipping the indicated st, chaining 1, then working the next sc. When you reach 24 total sts (including ch space), finish off central lobe. Mark this lobe’s last row for later joining. You should have about 12 color B and color C rows as you create the ombré.
Part 3: Side Lobes (make 2 right, 2 left)
You will now attach new yarn at appropriate points on the initial foundation row to work the two large side lobes, then the outermost points. Repeat symmetrically on each side.
- Join Color A to 3rd stitch from right edge of foundation row (for right lobe).
- Row 1: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, turn.
- Rows 2-4: Ch 1, blo sc in each st across, turn. At end of Row 4, switch to Color B.
- Rows 5-10: (With Color B) Repeat Row 2. Increase in first and last st every 3rd row for gentle curve. After Row 10, switch to Color C.
- Rows 11-16: (With Color C) Repeat as above, maintaining increases at each edge every 2nd row until you reach desired width (approx 14 sts). On final row, begin to create the point by decreasing at both ends (sc2tog at each edge) every row until only 3 sts remain. Fasten off. Repeat symmetrically for left lobe.
Part 4: Smaller Edge Points (make 2 or 3 per side)
Using the same color transitions, attach yarn at ends of the main side lobes and work small pointed leaflets as follows:
- Join Color B or C. Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, turn.
- Work 2 rows blo sc, increasing at first and last st of every other row. Then work a sequence of decreases at both ends each row to produce a sharp point (3-4 rows more). Fasten off, weave ends.
- Repeat for outermost mini-points as needed to mirror the shape of a true maple leaf—usually 3 on each side works best, making the total of 7 main points.
Part 5: Edging and Leaf Vein Detailing
- With Color C (deep red), join anywhere on outermost edge (RS facing). Ch 1, sc all around the perimeter, working 2 sc in each point and sc2tog in each inward dip (valley) to keep fabric undistorted. When at a color change, carry yarn neatly along wrong side or switch with invisible join. Sl st to starting sc to join.
- For visible leaf veins, use Color A or B. With tapestry needle and contrasting yarn, embroider simple surface slip stitches or whipstitch along central chain space and radiating out to each point, following photo as a guide, to enhance the realism of your maple leaf.
Part 6: Stem and Loop
- With Color B or C, join yarn at bottom center of leaf. Ch 18 (or desired stem length). Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each ch back toward base for a firm, dimensional stem.
- Optional: To make a hanging loop, ch 10 more at tip of stem before returning with sl sts, then rejoin to base.
- Fasten off, sew and weave in all ends securely.
Assembly and Finishing
- Check that all points and valleys are symmetrical and joined neatly at the base. Gently block the finished piece using a damp towel, laying it flat on a foam board. Use rust-proof pins to arrange each point evenly and shape the stem, steaming lightly if needed to enhance crispness. Let dry thoroughly.
- Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle on the wrong side for a tidy finish.
- If any edges curl, pin and steam again to set.
Customization Ideas
- Experiment with different ombré gradients: try yellows, golds, or deep oranges in place of reds for a traditional or modern look.
- Use a thicker yarn and larger hook for a placemat or mini-rug, or DK/sport weight for a delicate coaster.
- Make several leaves in different colors and join as a table runner or a garland.
- Sew the finished leaf onto a cushion cover or tote bag for a cheerful seasonal accent.
- Stiffen with fabric starch to use as a hanging ornament, or applique onto a shawl for an autumn accessory.
Troubleshooting Tips
- Leaf curls up: Try increasing your hook size or blocking more aggressively.
- Edges are uneven: Make sure increases and decreases are consistent on every lobe; use stitch markers at turning points.
- Motif getting too large/small: Adjust your number of rows or switch to a different yarn weight/hook size.
- Color changes look loose: Change color in the final yarn-over of the last stitch before the new section and pull tight.
- Vein stitches are uneven: Try counting stitches from the central vein and use light tension when embroidering.
- Points look floppy: Work a slip stitch or sc border for added firmness, or block more firmly.
Care Instructions
Hand wash gently in cool water with mild detergent. Lay flat to dry and reshape points as needed. For cotton, occasional pressing with a warm iron under a pressing cloth will keep your leaf looking crisp. Do not bleach. If using as a trivet, ensure the yarn is 100% cotton for best heat resistance and longevity.
Final Notes
Take your time with each section and check your stitch counts frequently. Adjust tension as needed for consistency and use your own leaf as a visual reference while working. Enjoy the journey—each maple leaf is unique and handmade with care, bringing the spirit of autumn into your home all season long.
