Original pattern reconstruction inspired by the visible crochet design in the reference image.
A dramatic all-black crochet table runner built from large openwork leaf and flower motifs joined into one long botanical strip. The design has a strong lace effect: solid crochet ribs outline each motif while chains and tall stitches create the transparent mesh inside.
The central feature is a large five-petal flower. Above and below it, overlapping leaf-shaped motifs continue the runner into a long symmetrical composition. Small fan-shaped side motifs soften the edges and help connect the larger leaves.
The photographed version is worked entirely in black, which makes the open spaces especially visible against a wooden table. The same construction also works beautifully in cream, deep green, burgundy or metallic cotton.
Finished size is approximately 95 to 115 cm long and 30 to 36 cm wide, depending on yarn, hook size and blocking.
What you’ll need
DK cotton or mercerised cotton in black.
A 3 mm to 3.5 mm crochet hook.
You’ll also need a tapestry needle, scissors, blocking pins and a blocking mat or thick towel.
For a firmer lace runner, cotton is preferable to soft acrylic because it keeps the openwork shapes crisp after blocking.
Abbreviations are US terms. ch is chain, sl st is slip stitch, sc is single crochet, hdc is half double crochet, dc is double crochet, tr is treble crochet, dtr is double treble crochet, MR is magic ring.
Construction overview
This runner is made from separate motifs rather than from one long rectangular base.
You will make:
1 large five-petal centre flower.
6 to 8 large pointed lace leaves.
2 to 4 rounded upper or lower leaf motifs.
2 small side fans.
Optional extra half-leaves to lengthen the runner.
The motifs are joined at the tips and along several edge points so the finished runner behaves like one continuous lace piece.
Large pointed lace leaf
Make at least six.
Ch 18.
Round 1. Starting in second chain from hook, work sc, hdc, dc, 4 tr, 5 dtr, 3 tr, dc, then work 5 dc into the final chain.
Continue along the opposite side of the foundation chain with dc, 3 tr, 5 dtr, 4 tr, dc, hdc, sc. Join with sl st.
This creates a long pointed oval.
Openwork leaf frame
Ch 5, skip 2 stitches, sc in next stitch.
Repeat around the leaf, adjusting the last space so the loops remain even.
On the next round, work into each ch-5 space:
sc, ch 5, sc.
Repeat around.
For the photographed look, make the chain loops gradually taller toward the widest part of the leaf:
ch 4 near the tip,
ch 5 through the middle,
ch 6 around the widest section,
then reduce again toward the base.
Solid centre rib
Join yarn at the base of the leaf.
Surface sl st or sc directly along the centre foundation chain from base to tip.
Work back toward the base with a second row of sc beside the first if you want the strong central rib seen in the photograph.
Fasten off.
Inner triangular lace detail
The large leaves in the reference have a darker, denser triangular section near the base.
Join yarn about one-third of the way up one side of the centre rib.
Ch 5 and attach to the opposite side of the rib.
Work back and forth inside this triangle with rows of chain spaces:
Row 1. Ch 4, sc in next space, repeated across.
Row 2. Ch 4 spaces again, decreasing one space at each side.
Continue until one small loop remains.
Fasten off.
This inner section gives the leaf its layered architectural look.
Rounded lace leaf
Make two to four.
Ch 16.
Work around the chain exactly as for the pointed leaf, but place more increases at both ends so the motif becomes rounder rather than sharply pointed.
Add ch-5 mesh around the outside and a solid centre rib.
Use these rounded shapes near the top and bottom of the runner to soften the silhouette.
Large five-petal centre flower
Begin with 10 sc in MR and join.
Round 2. Ch 5, skip 1 stitch, sc in next stitch, repeated five times to create five large petal foundations.
Flower petal
Work separately into each ch-5 space.
Row 1. 9 dc into the space.
Row 2. Turn. Ch 4, then work tr across, increasing at the beginning and end.
Row 3. Turn. Work ch-3 mesh spaces across.
Row 4. Work ch-4 mesh spaces across, increasing slightly through the centre.
Row 5. Repeat the mesh, then finish the petal with a firm border of sc.
To create the strong dark outline, work one more round of sc around the outside edge of each petal.
Repeat for all five petals.
The petals should be broad and pointed, with open mesh through the centre and heavier crochet along the sides.
Flower centre
Join yarn into the centre ring.
Work 2 rounds of sc, increasing evenly.
Then work one decorative round:
*sc, ch 4, skip 1 stitch* around.
Finish with a final sc round.
This creates the circular open centre seen in the photograph.
Side fan motif
Make two.
Round 1. 8 sc in MR.
Round 2. Ch 6, tr in same stitch, then *ch 2, tr in next stitch* around.
Do not close into a full circle.
Turn and work across the fan:
*sc in ch-2 space, ch 5* across.
Finish the outer edge with sc and picots.
Sew one fan to each side of the central flower or between two large leaves.
Building the runner
Lay the centre flower flat first.
Position one large pointed leaf above each upper flower petal and one below each lower petal.
Add another pair of leaves above and below those first leaves, overlapping the edges by approximately 2 to 3 cm.
Continue until the runner reaches the length you want.
The motifs should overlap visually, but the open mesh must remain visible.
Joining the motifs
Pin the complete arrangement before sewing.
Join each motif at three to five strong points:
at the tip,
at the base,
and at one or two places along each neighbouring side.
Use matching black yarn and small whip stitches.
Do not sew continuously around every edge. The negative spaces between motifs are part of the lace design.
For an even more seamless look, join motifs with slip stitches while crocheting their final border round.
Creating the strong outline
One reason the photographed runner looks so graphic is that the edges are noticeably thicker than the mesh.
After assembly, join black yarn anywhere along the outside edge and work one complete round of sc around every exposed outer section.
At sharp tips work:
sc, ch 2, sc
into the same point.
This final outline pulls the whole composition together.
Blocking
Blocking is essential for this pattern.
Soak the finished runner briefly in cool water, then press gently in a towel.
Lay it flat and stretch every leaf and flower petal into shape.
Pin the tips first, then pin the curved edges so every open chain space is visible.
Allow it to dry completely before unpinning.
The runner may look uneven before blocking, but the lace structure opens dramatically once pinned.
Making it longer
Add one extra large leaf motif at both ends.
For a dining-table-length runner, add two leaves per end.
Try to extend both ends symmetrically so the central flower remains visually centred.
Colour variations
Black creates the strongest gothic or modern look.
Warm cream gives the design an antique Irish-lace feel.
Deep forest green makes the motifs look botanical.
Burgundy or plum works well for an autumn table.
Metallic gold or silver thread can be used only for the final border if you want a more formal version.
Questions I get asked
Why is my lace curling?
That is normal before blocking, especially when tall stitches and chain spaces are mixed. Proper wet blocking should flatten the motifs.
Do I have to use black?
No. The pattern works in any solid colour, but high-contrast colours make the mesh easiest to see.
Can I crochet the whole runner as one piece?
Technically yes, but separate motifs are much easier to shape and arrange. They also let you change the final length before committing to the assembly.
How many motifs should I make?
For a runner close to the reference, start with one centre flower, six large leaves, two rounded leaves and two fans. Lay them out before making extras.
Is this beginner-friendly?
It is best for an intermediate crocheter because the stitch work is not especially difficult, but shaping, joining and blocking the motifs require patience.