Original reconstruction inspired by the visible crochet design; not the original creator’s exact written pattern.
An airy Irish-lace-inspired table runner made from large spiral scrolls, long curved leaf shapes, open mesh sections, flowers, small round berries and pointed leaves. The palette in the photograph is soft cream, dusty blush and sage green, giving the piece a delicate vintage look.
This design is best approached as freeform motif assembly rather than one continuous row-by-row pattern. Each scroll, leaf and flower is crocheted separately, arranged on a full-size template and then connected with chain mesh.
Finished size is approximately 90 to 105 cm long and 30 to 38 cm wide.
What you’ll need
Fine DK cotton or size 3 crochet thread in warm cream, pale sage green and dusty blush pink.
A 2 to 2.5 mm hook, tapestry needle, rustproof pins and a blocking mat or foam board.
For a more traditional Irish lace texture, use mercerised cotton and a hook small enough to keep the motifs firm.
Large spiral scroll motif
Make three to four in cream or blush.
Ch 42.
Row 1. Starting in second chain, sc across.
Row 2. Ch 1, turn. Work 2 sc in each of the first 8 stitches, then sc across the remaining stitches.
Row 3. Ch 3, turn. Dc across, working 2 dc in every third stitch through the highly curved section.
The increased end will naturally begin to curl into a spiral.
Continue one or two more rows in sc and dc, adding increases only along the inner curve until the scroll forms a smooth coil.
Finish the outer edge with sl st or reverse sc for definition.
Long curved sage leaf
Make three or four.
Ch 38.
Row 1. Starting in second chain: sc 6, hdc 6, dc 12, hdc 6, sc to end.
Work 3 sc in the final chain and continue down the opposite side with the same stitch sequence.
On the next round, work sc along the concave edge and use hdc, dc and occasional increases along the convex edge to make the motif bend into an S-shape.
Add one or two rounds if you need a broader leaf.
Pointed leaves
Make 10 to 14 in mixed cream and sage.
Ch 11.
Starting in second chain: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, 3 tr, dc, hdc, sc.
Work 3 sc into the tip and mirror the sequence on the other side.
On the final round, work a narrow border and add a raised central vein with surface slip stitch.
Six-petal flower
Make two large flowers.
Centre:
Round 1. 6 sc in MR.
Round 2. Inc around. (12)
Petals:
For each petal, ch 9. Starting in second chain work sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc. Sl st into the next two centre stitches.
Repeat six times.
Work a second round around each petal using sc and hdc to thicken the edge.
Make one flower mainly cream with a blush centre and one mainly blush with a cream centre.
Round berry motifs
Make 8 to 12.
Round 1. 6 sc in MR.
Round 2. Inc around. (12)
Round 3. Sc around.
For the textured look, work the last round in back loops only or add tiny picots around the edge.
Use blush for most berries and cream for a few accents.
Open mesh sections
The spaces between motifs are joined with irregular chain mesh.
Anchor yarn to one motif.
*Ch 5 to 8, sl st into a nearby motif or previous chain loop.* Repeat, varying chain length to fit the space.
Where the gap is wider, work a second mesh row into the middle of the first chain loops.
Do not make the net perfectly geometric. Slightly irregular cells give the natural Irish-lace effect seen in the photograph.
Small open oval motifs
For filler shapes, ch 14 and join to form a ring.
Round 1. Work sc around.
Round 2. *Ch 4, skip 2 stitches, sc in next stitch* around.
Round 3. Work sc into each chain space, shaping one end with hdc and dc to create a leaf-like oval.
Building the runner
Draw or print a full-size outline about 95 cm long and 34 cm wide.
Place the three or four large spiral motifs first, alternating their direction.
Next place the long sage S-shaped leaves so they flow through the centre and visually link the spirals.
Add the two large flowers, one near the upper third and one near the lower third.
Fill the remaining spaces with pointed leaves, berries and small oval motifs.
Pin every piece firmly with the right side facing down if you prefer to join from the back.
Joining with mesh
Use cream yarn for most of the connecting net.
Begin at one edge and work across small sections at a time, joining each chain loop to two or three neighbouring motifs.
Keep the runner flat on the template while joining. If a section starts pulling inward, lengthen the next chain loop. If it bulges, shorten it.
Final edging
Once every motif is connected, work a light edging around the outside perimeter.
Round 1. Sc evenly around.
Round 2. *Ch 3, skip 2 stitches, sc in next stitch* around.
For a softer edge, finish with tiny picots instead of another solid round.
Blocking
Wet block thoroughly.
Pin every spiral, petal, leaf tip and mesh section to the exact shape you want and allow it to dry completely before removing the pins.
This step is especially important for freeform lace because blocking determines the final silhouette.
Variations
Use ivory and gold for a formal wedding-table version. Use white and eucalyptus green for a modern botanical look. Use one colour throughout for a more traditional Irish-crochet effect.
Questions I get asked
Is this worked in one piece? No. Separate motifs joined with mesh are much easier and closer to the construction visible in the photograph.
Do all mesh holes need to be the same size? No. A little variation helps the lace flow around the motifs naturally.
Can I use thicker yarn? Yes, but the finished runner will become much larger and less delicate. If using worsted yarn, increase the hook size and reduce the number of motifs.