A moon fairy, a heart fairy and a sun fairy, each sitting above a wide pastel spiral in yellow, pink, lavender, mint, cream or blue, with tiny clouds, butterflies, hearts, flowers and tassels hanging underneath.
All three are the same basic piece. The spiral band is identical, the centre cord is identical, and the fairy body is identical. Only the colour, wings, head decoration, top symbol and bottom charms change. Make the first one carefully and the next two go much faster.
The spiral needs a little structure inside it. Without that, a band this wide slowly relaxes and the fairy ends up sitting above a soft twisted ribbon instead of the open coil you see here. The centre cord also matters because it keeps the little charms hanging through the middle rather than drifting to one side. This follows the same structural logic as the reference pattern, where the wired band and centre cord are the parts shared between designs.
What you’ll need
DK cotton in cream plus your main pastel colours. I used butter yellow, dusty pink, lavender, pale mint and powder blue.
Small amounts of skin tone, dark brown, white, green and mustard yellow.
A 2.5 mm hook.
You’ll also want polyester fibrefill, small wooden or pearl beads, one larger bead or wooden ring for the top, about a metre of 0.8 mm florist wire, strong cotton cord, a tapestry needle and black and pink embroidery thread.
Finished length is about 45 to 50 cm depending on how far you open the spiral.
Abbreviations are US terms. ch is chain, sl st is slip stitch, sc is single crochet, hdc is half double crochet, dc is double crochet, inc is two stitches in one, dec is an invisible decrease, MR is magic ring and BLO is back loops only.
Part 1. The striped band
The band is worked flat first.
For the yellow fairy, use yellow, cream and mint.
For the pink fairy, use pink, cream and lavender.
For the blue fairy, use blue, cream and pale yellow.
Starting in your first colour, ch 14. Change to cream and ch 14. Change to your third colour and ch 14. Keep rotating those three colours until you have 84 chains.
Row 1. Sc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch across, matching the yarn colour to the chain section underneath (83).
Rows 2 to 5. Turn, ch 1, sc across, keeping the colour blocks lined up.
You now have a flat band roughly 2 cm wide.
Do not make it much wider. The spiral looks soft because it has depth, but if the band itself is too wide it becomes heavy and the turns begin to fold over each other.
Part 2. Wiring and coiling
Thread florist wire through the stitches along one long edge, weaving in and out every few stitches.
Repeat along the other long edge.
Fold about a centimetre of wire back on itself at each end and hide it inside the stitches.
Wrap the band around a wine bottle or similar straight-sided bottle in an even spiral.
Press it gently against the glass so the wire takes the curve, then slide it off.
Set the turns roughly 4 cm apart.
Do this while the piece is hanging rather than lying flat. A spiral can look beautifully even on a table and completely crooked once gravity gets involved.
The original construction also shapes the wired band around a bottle before setting the turns apart, which is what gives the hanging its regular coil.
Part 3. Small flowers on the band
These are optional, but they help connect the fairy to the decorations hanging underneath.
Work them before assembly.
For a small flower, 5 sc in MR.
In each stitch work sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, sl st into the same stitch.
Fasten off.
Make them in white, yellow, pink or whatever contrast colour belongs to your fairy.
Do not cover every turn.
Two or three flowers on the outward-facing parts of the spiral are enough. Too many tiny decorations compete with the fairy and the hanging charms.
Part 4. The centre cord
Cut a length of strong cord about 60 cm.
Knot one end.
Thread on five or six small beads.
Hold the cord through the middle of the spiral and position one bead roughly level with each gap between the turns.
Knot above and below every bead so it stays in place.
Count the turns before you start knotting. Five turns need five main bead positions.
The same spacing principle is used in the reference pattern: the beads sit level with the gaps and help the spiral stay evenly opened.
The fairy
All three versions use the same head, body and arms.
Change the dress, hair flowers and wings to suit the colour.
Head
In skin tone.
Round 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Round 2. Inc six times (12)
Round 3. Sc, inc repeated six times (18)
Round 4. Sc twice, inc repeated six times (24)
Round 5. Sc three times, inc repeated six times (30)
Rounds 6 to 11. Sc around (30)
Do not use safety eyes if you want the sleeping expression from the photo.
Embroider each closed eye as one shallow curved line between rounds 8 and 9.
Add three tiny lashes at the outer edge.
Work a very small mouth one round lower and add pink cheeks with embroidery thread or a little dry pastel.
Round 12. Sc three times, dec repeated six times (24)
Round 13. Sc twice, dec repeated six times (18)
Round 14. Sc, dec repeated six times (12)
Stuff firmly.
Round 15. Dec six times and close.
Hair cap
In dark brown.
Round 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Round 2. Inc around (12)
Round 3. Sc, inc repeated (18)
Round 4. Sc twice, inc repeated (24)
Round 5. Sc three times, inc repeated (30)
Rounds 6 and 7. Sc around.
Fasten off.
Fit the cap over the upper part of the head and sew it down.
Do not bring it too far over the forehead. Leave enough skin showing above the embroidered eyes or the face starts looking crowded.
Bun
In dark brown.
6 sc in MR.
Inc around (12).
Sc around for three rounds.
Stuff lightly, decrease and close.
Sew the bun high on the back of the head.
Add two or three tiny flowers around the base.
The yellow fairy has cream and yellow flowers.
The pink fairy has pink and lavender flowers.
The blue fairy can have a small blue bow instead.
Body
In skin tone.
Round 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Round 2. Inc around (12)
Round 3. Sc, inc repeated six times (18)
Round 4. Sc twice, inc repeated six times (24)
Rounds 5 and 6. Sc around.
Change to the dress colour.
Rounds 7 to 10. Sc around.
Stuff the body lightly.
Do not overstuff it. The fairy is sewn directly above the coil and a very round body makes her sit too far forward.
The skirt
Work into the front loops of the next round.
Ch 2.
Work 2 dc in each stitch around.
Next round. Dc, 2 dc in next stitch, repeated around.
Work one plain dc round.
Change to cream.
Finish with sl st, ch 3, sl st into the next stitch repeated around.
The cream edge is small, but it makes the skirt look much more finished.
Arms, make two
In skin tone.
5 sc in MR (5)
Sc for six rounds.
Change to the dress colour.
Sc for two rounds.
Flatten and fasten off.
Sew the arms to the sides of the body, slightly toward the front.
The hands should rest near the skirt rather than stick straight outward.
Legs, make two
In skin tone.
5 sc in MR.
Sc for five rounds.
Change to white or cream.
Sc for two rounds for the socks.
Fasten off.
Sew beneath the skirt so only the lower part of each leg shows.
The wings
The wings are different on each fairy but the construction is the same.
Make four pieces for one fairy, two larger upper wings and two smaller lower wings.
For a large wing, ch 11.
Sc in the second chain, hdc in the next, dc in the next six, hdc, sc.
Turn around the end of the chain and work the same stitches back along the opposite side.
Next round, work sc around with two increases at the widest end.
Finish with ch 3, sl st into the next stitch repeated around for a soft picot edge.
For the small wing, begin with ch 8 and work the same way.
The yellow fairy uses cream wings.
The pink fairy uses pale pink wings with a darker pink edge.
The blue fairy uses pale blue wings with cream edging.
Block all four pieces before sewing them on.
Sew the large wings above the small ones and angle them slightly outward.
Do not stitch the entire wing flat against the back. Secure only the inner edge so the outer half remains free.
Fairy 1. The moon fairy
Work the dress in butter yellow with a cream edge.
Use cream wings and small yellow flowers in the hair.
The crescent moon hangs above her from the top cord.
In yellow, ch 22.
Starting in the second chain, sc in the next 4, hdc in the next 4, dc in the next 5, hdc in the next 4 and sc to the end.
Turn.
Work the same sequence back, adding an extra stitch into every third stitch along the outside edge.
Repeat one more row if you want a thicker crescent.
Make a second identical piece.
Place both together, insert a short curved length of florist wire and sew around the edge.
Do not stuff it heavily. It should stay fairly flat.
Make a tiny five-point star and sew it below the moon.
Fairy 2. The heart fairy
Work the dress in dusty pink with a cream edge.
Use pink wings and decorate the bun with tiny lavender and pink flowers.
For the heart, make two cups.
Cup 1. In pink, 6 sc in MR (6), inc around (12), sc around for two rounds.
Fasten off.
Make the second cup but do not fasten off.
Join the two cups with sc and work around both pieces (24).
Sc around for two rounds.
Then sc twice, dec repeated around.
Work one plain round.
Sc, dec repeated around.
Stuff.
Dec until closed.
The finished heart should be plump but not hard.
Attach a small flower directly beneath it before connecting it to the fairy.
Fairy 3. The sun fairy
Work the dress in powder blue with cream edging.
Use pale blue wings.
For the sun, in yellow:
Round 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Round 2. Inc around (12)
Round 3. Sc, inc repeated around (18)
Round 4. Sc around.
Make a second circle the same way.
Embroider closed eyes and a small curved smile on the front piece.
Join the two circles with sc, stuffing lightly before closing.
For each ray work sl st, ch 4, sl st back down the chain, sl st into the next stitch.
Repeat around.
The rays do not all need to be perfectly identical. Slight variation makes the little sun look softer.
The bottom charms
The charms in these hangings are deliberately mixed.
The moon fairy uses a smiling cloud, small flowers, a butterfly, beads and a yellow tassel.
The heart fairy uses butterflies, hearts, lavender beads and a pink tassel.
The sun fairy uses a smiling cloud, blue and yellow flowers, beads and a blue tassel.
The smiling cloud
In cream.
Ch 9.
Work around both sides of the chain.
Sc in the first two stitches, hdc twice in the next stitch, dc three times in the next, hdc twice in the next, then sc toward the end.
Work the opposite side in the same way so you have several rounded bumps.
Make two.
Embroider closed eyes and a tiny smile on one piece.
Place the two together, stuff very lightly and sew around the edge.
If the cloud is heavily stuffed it becomes a ball. Keep it almost flat.
Small heart
Make it exactly like the large heart topper but begin each cup with 5 sc instead of 6 and work one fewer plain round.
Stuff lightly.
Small butterfly
In your first colour, ch 4 and join into a ring.
Into the ring work ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, sl st.
Repeat once for the two upper wings.
Then work ch 2, 2 hdc, ch 2, sl st twice for the lower wings.
Wrap a contrasting strand around the middle several times.
Knot it at the top and leave the ends long for antennae.
Small flower
6 sc in MR.
In every stitch work sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, sl st.
Add a contrasting French knot in the centre.
Tassel
Wrap yarn around four fingers about 20 times.
Slide it off carefully.
Tie one strand firmly through the top.
Wrap another strand around the bundle about 1.5 cm below the top.
Cut through the bottom loops.
Trim the ends evenly.
For the moon fairy use yellow.
For the heart fairy use dusty pink.
For the sun fairy use powder blue.
Putting it together
Sew the top turn of the spiral firmly to the underside of the fairy.
Go through the same hidden point several times.
Drop the centre cord through the middle of the spiral.
Check that each bead sits between two turns rather than directly against the crochet band.
Attach the upper end of the cord to the underside of the fairy.
Adjust the knots before you secure anything permanently.
If the cord leans to one side, rotate the fairy attachment rather than bending the whole spiral.
Attach the moon, heart or sun to the top of the fairy with a narrow crochet cord.
Leave roughly 6 to 8 cm between the fairy’s head and the symbol.
At the bottom of the centre cord, attach the main charm.
Add the smaller flowers, butterflies and hearts on separate short cords so they sit at slightly different heights.
Finally attach the tassel.
The reference pattern uses the same assembly logic: the coil is secured underneath the topper, the centre cord drops through the middle, and its position is adjusted before the lower charm is attached.
The simpler nursery version
Same fairy, same spiral, fewer details.
Work the band in cream and one pastel only.
Use a plain cream wing without the picot edge.
Skip the small flowers on the spiral.
Instead of several dangling charms, use one cloud and one tassel at the bottom.
This version is quicker and it looks particularly good when several are hung together at different heights.
For a baby’s room, avoid loose beads and any small detachable decorations. Embroider the facial features and replace beads with tightly sewn crochet balls if the hanging will ever be within reach.
The two-colour band
Work the foundation chain in alternating blocks of 14 chains.
Use cream, then your main colour, then cream again.
Continue until you reach 84 chains.
Work the following five rows exactly as for the striped version.
Once it is coiled, the two colours twist around each other and the spiral looks more complicated than the actual crochet is.
Plain wings
Ch 11.
Sc in the second chain, hdc, dc across the centre, hdc, sc.
Work back along the opposite side.
Work one final round of sc.
Make two large and two small.
Block them firmly and sew them behind the fairy.
The single charm finish
Make one smiling cloud.
Attach it directly beneath the final turn of the spiral.
Add a tassel 4 to 5 cm below it.
Do not add anything else.
The empty space is what makes this version work.
Notes and variations
A lavender fairy works from exactly the same instructions and looks especially good with cream and dusty pink in the spiral.
For a more woodland look, use sage, cream and mustard and replace the butterflies with tiny leaves.
A rainbow version works well too, but keep the fairy dress to one colour. If the dress, wings, spiral and charms are all multicoloured, there is nowhere for the eye to rest.
Make all three and hang them together in a bright window. They are designed as a set and the differences between the moon, heart and sun show up much better that way.
For a shorter version, reduce the foundation chain to 56.
For a longer nursery mobile, increase the foundation chain to 112 but keep the band five rows deep.
Swap the fairy for a small angel, ballerina, flower doll or sleeping moon character and keep the same spiral underneath.
Questions I get asked
Why does my spiral close up after hanging? The wire is either too soft or the turns were set too close together. Open the turns again around a bottle and use slightly firmer florist wire if necessary.
Why is my fairy leaning forward? The body is probably overstuffed or the spiral has been sewn too far toward the back. Move the attachment point slightly forward underneath the skirt.
Do I need the wire? On a band this wide, yes. Without it the coil gradually relaxes and loses the open spiral shape. The reference article makes the same point about structural support.
Can I use acrylic? Yes. Cotton gives sharper stitches, but acrylic makes the finished hanging lighter.
Can I use safety eyes? You can, but the embroidered closed eyes are what give these fairies the peaceful expression shown in the design.
Which fairy is easiest? The heart fairy. The heart is quicker than shaping the crescent moon, and the sun takes a little longer because of all the rays.
How long does it take? Around six hours for the first one. Once the fairy body and spiral construction are familiar, the second and third are considerably quicker.