Materials
Use a smooth sport or light DK cotton yarn for good stitch definition. Approximate total yarn is 550 to 700 g depending on the finished length and border depth.
Main colors: sage green about 300 g, cream about 250 g, dark leaf green about 80 g, and warm yellow about 40 g.
Crochet hook: 3.0 mm to 3.5 mm, or the size needed to obtain a firm flat fabric.
Also prepare a yarn needle, scissors, blocking pins, measuring tape, and rustproof blocking surface.
Finished Size
Approximate finished size after blocking: 38 to 42 cm wide and 95 to 110 cm long. The pattern is easy to shorten or lengthen by changing the number of straight center rounds before beginning the decorative border.
Abbreviations
US crochet terms are used throughout.
MR = magic ring
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
sp = space
st / sts = stitch / stitches
inc = 2 stitches worked in the same stitch
sk = skip
rep = repeat
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
Method
The runner is built in one long oval base. A sage center panel is worked around a foundation chain. Cream openwork and scalloped borders are added around the outside. A narrow yellow accent round is worked near the inner edge. Six raised daisies are crocheted separately and sewn in a straight line down the center. Small dark green leaf or puff motifs fill the spaces between the flowers and give the center strip more texture.
Keep the base flat as you work. On the curved ends, increases are distributed evenly. On the long sides, work without increases unless a round specifically says otherwise. Blocking is essential because the open lace border relaxes and becomes much more even after wet blocking.
Formation
The runner has four visual zones. The first zone is a solid sage oval. The second zone is a narrow yellow accent band. The third zone is a cream and sage openwork frame. The fourth zone is a wide cream lace border finished with repeating sage scallops. The daisies are attached last so they stay dimensional.
Full Pattern
Part 1 – Sage Oval Base
With sage green, ch 151. This foundation gives a runner about 90 to 95 cm long before the outer border. For a shorter runner, remove chains in multiples of 4. For a longer runner, add chains in multiples of 4.
Round 1. Starting in the second ch from the hook, work 1 sc in each of the next 149 ch. Work 5 sc in the last ch. Continue along the unused loops on the opposite side of the foundation chain and work 1 sc in each of the next 149 loops. Work 4 sc in the first foundation ch. Join with sl st.
Round 2. Ch 2. Work 1 hdc in each stitch along the first long side. Across the curved end, place 2 hdc in each of the 5 end stitches. Work 1 hdc in each stitch along the second long side. Across the final curved end, place 2 hdc in each of the 5 end stitches. Join.
Round 3. Ch 2. Work hdc evenly along the long side. On each curved end, work [1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st] around the curve. Join.
Round 4. Ch 2. Work hdc evenly along the long side. On each curve, work [1 hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around the curve. Join.
Round 5. Ch 2. Work hdc evenly along the long side. On each curve, work [1 hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around the curve. Join.
Round 6. Ch 2. Work hdc evenly along the long side. On each curve, work [1 hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around the curve. Join.
Round 7. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around, adding an increase every 5 to 6 stitches only on the curved ends as needed to keep the piece perfectly flat. Join.
Part 2 – Sage Texture Rows
Round 8. Ch 3. Work 1 dc in each stitch around. On the two curved ends, add 10 to 12 evenly spaced increases across each curve. Join.
Round 9. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in BLO of every stitch around. Add only enough increases on the curved ends to prevent cupping. Join.
Round 10. Ch 3. Work 1 dc in each stitch around, again adding evenly spaced increases on the curves. Join.
Round 11. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around. Join. Fasten off sage.
Part 3 – Yellow Accent Band
Join warm yellow in any stitch near one long side.
Round 12. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around. Add only the minimum number of increases required on the curved ends. Join.
Round 13. Ch 2. Work 1 hdc in each stitch around. On each curved end, add 8 to 12 evenly spaced increases. Join.
Round 14. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around. Join and fasten off yellow.
Part 4 – Sage Frame
Join sage green.
Round 15. Ch 3. Work 1 dc in each stitch around. Add increases on curves as needed. Join.
Round 16. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in BLO around. Join.
Round 17. Ch 3. Work [1 dc in next 3 sts, ch 1, sk 1] around. On each curved end, keep the same visual spacing but place an extra dc group whenever the fabric begins to pull. Join.
Round 18. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch-1 sp around. Join. Fasten off sage.
Part 5 – Cream Openwork Border
Join cream.
Round 19. Ch 4. Sk 2 sts, sc in next st. Repeat [ch 3, sk 2 sts, sc in next st] around. On the curved ends, occasionally skip only 1 stitch instead of 2 so the mesh stays flat. Join.
Round 20. Sl st into first ch-3 sp. Ch 3, work 2 dc in same sp. Ch 2. Work 3 dc in next ch-3 sp. Repeat [ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp] around. Join.
Round 21. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each dc and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp around. Join.
Round 22. Ch 5. Sk 3 sts, sc in next st. Repeat [ch 4, sk 3 sts, sc in next st] around. Adjust the final repeat slightly if needed so the mesh meets evenly.
Round 23. Sl st into first ch-4 sp. Ch 3, 4 dc in same sp. Sc in next ch-4 sp. Repeat [5 dc in next ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-4 sp] around. Join.
Round 24. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around. Fasten off cream.
Part 6 – Cream Fan Lace
Rejoin cream in any stitch.
Round 25. Ch 1. Sc in first st. Ch 5, sk 4 sts, sc in next st. Repeat around. On the curves, use ch 4 in a few places if the loops look too loose. Join.
Round 26. Sl st into next ch-5 sp. Ch 3. Work 6 dc in same sp. Sc in next ch-5 sp. Repeat [7 dc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next ch-5 sp] around. Join.
Round 27. Ch 1. Sc in first dc of a fan. Ch 3, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat across the fan to create small decorative loops. Sc in the valley stitch between fans. Repeat around. Join.
Round 28. Ch 1. Work sc evenly around, placing 3 sc in each ch-3 loop. Join. Fasten off.
Part 7 – Sage Outer Scallops
Join sage green at the outer edge.
Round 29. Ch 1. Sc in first st. Sk 2 sts, work 7 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st. Repeat around to form rounded sage scallops. On each curved end, reduce the skipped stitches to 1 where necessary so the scallops do not pull.
Round 30. With cream, join at the first scallop. Work 1 sc in each stitch across each sage scallop and 1 sl st in the valley between scallops. This narrow cream outline gives the edge the two-tone look seen in the reference. Join and fasten off.
Part 8 – Large Daisy Motif – Make 6
Flower center with yellow. Round 1. MR, ch 1, 8 sc in ring. Join.
Round 2. Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each stitch around. Join. 16 sts.
Round 3. Ch 1. Work [1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around. Join. 24 sts.
Fasten off yellow.
Join white in any stitch.
Petal Round. Ch 8. Starting in second ch from hook work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Sl st in next 2 center stitches. Repeat the petal sequence around until 12 petals are formed. If the petals become crowded, use 3 center stitches between one or two petals so they lie flat.
Optional raised petal round. Join white behind the first petal. Ch 9 and work back 1 sc, 1 hdc, 4 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Sl st behind the next petal. Repeat around for a second layer of 12 larger petals. This creates the full dimensional look in the photograph.
Fasten off. Steam very lightly or finger shape the petals. Do not flatten the flower completely.
Part 9 – Dark Green Leaf Clusters
Make about 24 small leaves and 12 medium leaves.
Small leaf. With dark green ch 9. Starting in second ch from hook work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 4 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Ch 1 and work along the opposite side of the foundation chain: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 4 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Sl st to the first stitch and fasten off.
Medium leaf. Ch 11. Starting in second ch from hook work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 5 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc. Ch 1 and mirror the same stitches down the other side of the chain. Sl st to join.
For a more textured center strip, make small green puff circles: MR, work 10 puff stitches separated by ch 1, join, and fasten off. These can be placed between the leaves underneath each daisy.
Part 10 – Center Flower Strip
Lay the finished runner flat with the long axis vertical.
Position the six daisies in a straight line down the center. Leave roughly the same distance between each flower. The first and last flower should sit inside the rounded end sections rather than directly on the outer border.
Arrange 4 to 6 leaves around each daisy, alternating the direction of the leaf tips. Use dark green leaves near the flower centers and lighter sage leaves if you want more contrast.
Pin everything in place before sewing. Sew through the center of each flower first, then secure the base of every petal that touches the runner. Sew each leaf along its center spine only so the edges remain slightly raised.
Assembly
Weave in all loose yarn ends before attaching the motifs.
Block the runner base first. Pin the long sides straight and shape both rounded ends evenly. Allow it to dry completely.
Place the flower and leaf motifs after blocking. Begin with the center flower and work outward toward both ends so the spacing remains balanced.
Use matching yarn and small invisible stitches to attach the motifs. Avoid sewing through the entire thickness of the runner when possible so the back stays neat.
Blocking and Finishing
After all motifs are attached, mist the runner lightly and reshape the lace border by hand. Pin each outer scallop so the edge forms an even rhythm around the runner.
Do not press the raised flowers with an iron. If needed, steam from several centimeters above the surface and reshape the petals with your fingers.
Trim all yarn tails closely only after the final blocking is complete.
How to Change the Size
To make the runner shorter, remove foundation chains in multiples of 4 and reduce the number of daisies. Five daisies make a medium runner. Four daisies make a shorter centerpiece.
To make the runner longer, add foundation chains in multiples of 4 and add one daisy for approximately every 14 to 16 cm of extra finished length.
To make the runner wider, add one or two additional sage rounds before the yellow accent band or repeat one cream mesh round before the outer scallops.