Materials
Use medium cotton yarn or a smooth acrylic yarn. You will need deep red yarn for the round motifs and flower centers. Use warm cream yarn for the swirl sections and flower petals. Use olive green and dark sage green for the leaves. A 3.0 mm to 4.0 mm crochet hook works well depending on your yarn. You will also need a tapestry needle, scissors, stitch markers, blocking pins, and a measuring tape.
Finished Size
The sample style can be made about 35 cm to 42 cm wide and 120 cm to 150 cm long. You can make it shorter by using fewer repeat sections or longer by adding more red circles and swirl sections.
Abbreviations
MR = magic ring
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
inc = increase
dec = decrease
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
Method
The runner is built from separate pieces and then joined. First make the red circles. Next make the cream openwork swirl sections. Then crochet the flowers and leaves. Arrange the pieces in a long alternating layout before sewing anything permanently. Once the shape looks balanced, join the circles to the cream sections, add the flower clusters, and finish the outer curves with small cream bobbles.
Pattern Part 1. Large Red Circle Motifs
Make 6 large red circles for a runner similar in length to the photo. Make fewer or more if you want a different length.
Round 1. With red yarn make an MR. Work 12 dc into the ring. Join with sl st. 12 sts.
Round 2. Ch 2. Work 2 dc in each stitch around. Join. 24 sts.
Round 3. Ch 2. Work 1 dc in the first stitch and 2 dc in the next stitch. Repeat around. Join. 36 sts.
Round 4. Ch 2. Work 1 dc in the next 2 stitches and 2 dc in the next stitch. Repeat around. Join. 48 sts.
Round 5. Ch 2. Work 1 dc in the next 3 stitches and 2 dc in the next stitch. Repeat around. Join. 60 sts.
Round 6. Ch 2. Work 1 dc in the next 4 stitches and 2 dc in the next stitch. Repeat around. Join. 72 sts.
Round 7. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in every stitch around. Join. 72 sts.
Round 8. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in every stitch around. Join and fasten off.
If the circle begins to cup, add a few evenly spaced increases in the next round. If it begins to ripple, work one plain round without increases. The circles should lie flat before assembly.
Pattern Part 2. Cream Swirl Half Circle Sections
The cream section looks like a wide curved fan with an open mesh center and a firm curved outer edge. Make 6 to 7 sections. Each section will sit between two red circles and overlap slightly to create the flowing S shape.
Row 1. With cream yarn ch 8. Work 1 dc in the fourth ch from the hook and 1 dc in each remaining ch. Turn. 5 dc.
Row 2. Ch 3. Work 2 dc in the first stitch. Work 1 dc in the next 3 stitches. Work 2 dc in the last stitch. Turn. 7 dc.
Row 3. Ch 3. Work 2 dc in the first stitch. Work 1 dc in the next 5 stitches. Work 2 dc in the last stitch. Turn. 9 dc.
Row 4. Ch 3. Work 2 dc in the first stitch. Ch 1 and skip 1 stitch. Work 1 dc in the next stitch. Repeat the ch 1 open space pattern across. Work 2 dc in the final stitch. Turn.
Row 5. Ch 3. Work 2 dc in the first stitch. Ch 2 and work 1 sc in the next ch 1 space. Repeat across. End with 2 dc in the last stitch. Turn.
Row 6. Ch 3. Work 2 dc in the first stitch. In each ch 2 space work 2 dc then ch 1. End with 2 dc in the last stitch. Turn.
Row 7. Ch 3. Work 2 dc in the first stitch. Ch 2 and skip 1 stitch. Work 1 dc in the next stitch. Repeat across. End with 2 dc in the last stitch. Turn.
Row 8. Ch 1. Work sc evenly across the top edge. Do not fasten off.
Turn the work so the long curved side is facing you. Work 2 to 3 rounds of sc evenly along the curved edge. Add an extra sc every few stitches where needed so the edge bends smoothly and does not pull. The finished section should form a broad cream fan with an open lace area and a firm solid curve.
Pattern Part 3. Cream Center Spine
The photo has a smooth cream ribbon running through the middle. This can be created as a separate narrow strip and sewn over the joins.
Ch 10 with cream yarn.
Row 1. Work 1 hdc in the third ch from the hook and 1 hdc in each chain across. Turn. 8 hdc.
Row 2. Ch 2. Work 1 hdc in each stitch across. Turn.
Repeat Row 2 until the strip is long enough to travel through the full center of the runner.
Fasten off with a long tail for sewing.
During assembly, gently curve this strip from side to side. Sew it over the inner edges of the cream fan sections so it creates one continuous flowing line.
Pattern Part 4. Cream Bobble Edge
The small cream balls around the outer curves can be made as simple puff style bobbles directly on the edge.
Join cream yarn to the outer curved edge.
Work 3 sc.
In the next stitch make a bobble by working 5 unfinished dc in the same stitch. Yarn over and pull through all loops. Ch 1 to close.
Work 3 sc.
Repeat the bobble and 3 sc sequence along the outer curve.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Pattern Part 5. Red Textured Flower Center
Make 5 large flower centers.
Round 1. With red yarn make an MR and work 8 sc in the ring. Join.
Round 2. Work 2 sc in each stitch around. Join. 16 sts.
Round 3. In FLO work 1 sc in each stitch around.
Round 4. In each stitch work a small puff stitch made from 3 unfinished hdc. Close each puff with ch 1.
Round 5. Work another puff round between the puffs of the previous round to create a raised clustered center.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Pattern Part 6. Large Cream Flower Petals
Make 5 large flowers. Each flower has 8 rounded petals around the red center.
Join cream yarn to the back of the red center.
Petal 1. Ch 4. Work 2 tr in the same base stitch. Work 3 tr in the next stitch. Ch 4 and sl st into the next stitch.
Repeat the petal sequence around until you have 8 petals.
Second layer. Join cream yarn behind the first petal layer. Ch 5. Work 3 tr in the same space. Work 3 tr in the next space. Ch 5 and sl st into the next back space.
Repeat around to create 8 larger petals behind the first layer.
Fasten off and shape the petals with your fingers.
Pattern Part 7. Large Leaves
Make about 20 to 24 leaves in mixed olive and dark sage shades.
Ch 12.
Work 1 sc in the second ch from the hook.
Work 1 hdc in the next ch.
Work 1 dc in the next 3 ch.
Work 1 tr in the next 3 ch.
Work 1 dc in the next ch.
Work 1 hdc in the next ch.
Work 3 sc in the last ch to turn the tip.
Continue along the opposite side of the foundation chain using the reverse sequence.
Join with sl st at the base.
Work a line of surface sl st from the base to the tip to form the center vein.
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Pattern Part 8. Small Accent Leaves
Make 10 to 14 smaller leaves in red, rust, cream, and olive if you want the layered look shown in the photo.
Ch 8.
Work 1 sc in the second ch from the hook.
Work 1 hdc in the next ch.
Work 1 dc in the next 3 ch.
Work 1 hdc in the next ch.
Work 3 sc in the last ch.
Work back along the opposite side in the same order.
Join and fasten off.
Formation
Lay all pieces on a large table before sewing. Place the red circles in a staggered line so one circle sits to the left and the next sits to the right. Place one cream fan between each pair. Rotate the fans so their solid curves form an S shape through the center.
When the layout is balanced, overlap the edges by about 1 cm to 2 cm. Use cream yarn and small whip stitches to join the cream fans to the red circles from the back. Keep the front surface as clean as possible.
Lay the cream center spine over the inner joins. Curve it gently through the full runner. Sew it in place with small hidden stitches. This strip helps the separate sections look like one continuous design.
Flower Placement
Place one large cream and red flower over every second main join. The flowers should cover the meeting point between a red circle and the cream swirl. Arrange 3 to 5 leaves behind each flower. Mix the green shades so the clusters look natural. Add one or two smaller accent leaves if you want more depth.
Sew the leaves first. Sew only along the center vein so the edges stay slightly raised. Then sew the flower over the leaf bases. Use strong stitches through the flower center and a few hidden stitches under the outer petals.
Final Assembly
Check that every red circle lies flat.
Check that every cream fan has a smooth curve.
Join the red circles and cream sections from the back.
Add the cream center spine over the middle joins.
Work the cream bobble edging along the exposed outer cream curves.
Arrange and sew the leaves.
Sew the large flowers over the main joins.
Add any extra accent leaves where the design needs balance.
Weave in all yarn ends securely.
Blocking And Shaping
Lightly wet block the finished runner. Pin the red circles flat and shape each cream fan into a smooth rounded curve. Pin the center spine into a gentle S shape. Open the lace spaces with your fingers before the runner dries. Shape the flower petals and leaves while damp. Allow the entire runner to dry completely before removing the pins.
How To Change The Size
For a shorter runner use 4 red circles and 4 cream fan sections. For a medium runner use 5 red circles and 5 cream sections. For a long dining table runner use 6 to 8 red circles and enough cream sections to connect them. Keep the same flower spacing so the design stays balanced.
Conclusion
This red and cream floral swirl runner is made from simple repeated motifs that become much more decorative after assembly. The red circles give the project strong color while the cream lace sections keep it light and elegant. The layered flowers and leaves hide the joins and create the three dimensional finish seen in the photo. Because the construction is modular, you can easily change the length, flower colors, or leaf shades to make your own version.
Pattern note. This is an approximate photo inspired pattern written from scratch from the visible design. It is not a transcription of an existing written pattern. Small adjustments may be needed depending on yarn weight, hook size, and personal tension.